Winnipeg : Good 'Hoods
French Connection
By
Aug 21, 2008

Saunter east across the stunning cabled Esplanade Riel pedestrian bridge and enter a Winnipeg neighbourhood where bistros, boutiques and bilingual conversations spill from Provencher Boulevard, the grand tree-lined street that runs through the heart of the city’s Quartier Français .

From the Romanesque façade of St. Boniface Cathedral to the quaint, red-brick Hotel de Ville (City Hall), the area’s architectural accents are less dramatic and more rustic than Montréal’s, and its roots more rebellious than royal. But its street-side cafés, buttery croissants and haute cuisine are equally fresh.

This year, the largest francophone community in Western Canada celebrates its centennial, and in its own mini-renaissance finds upscale condos, rose-coloured restaurants and revitalized storefronts popping up among century-old buildings.

Bon appetit

Appropriately, St. Boniface’s community revolves around food. For everything from lobster bisque to foie gras, the Promenade Bistro offers breakfast, lunch (under $10) and French-inspired dinner entrées (under $20). Located at the foot of the Esplanade Riel Bridge, the restaurant also boasts a room with a view.

If you’d rather sip fine wine en terrasse , step into Step’N Out , where eclectic entrées ($25 – $42) look like works of art—even next to the owner’s ornamental shoe collection. Feast on classic or contemporary French cuisine at In Ferno’s Bistro , which serves up six varieties of moules et frites (mussels and fries) for $12, and other brasserie fare in an intimate setting worthy of Provençe.

Follow the brushstrokes

Appreciate French art and culture at the Maison des Artistes , a small gallery located in St. Boniface City Hall. Or discover the Manitoban art scene at Wayne Arthur Gallery , which sells local artists’ jewellery, paintings, drawings, photography, sculpture and pottery.

Wander back in time

Stroll through early Manitoba history on Taché Avenue, including Winnipeg’s oldest building and the largest oak log structure in North America, St. Boniface Museum . Visit mythical rebel and Manitoba founder Louis Riel’s tombstone and marvel at St. Boniface Cathedral , an architectural feat that incorporates modern design into the remaining stone walls and elegant façade of the 1908 Basilica, destroyed by fire in 1968. Cross the street to the Promenade Taché and meander along the Red River for sweeping views of Winnipeg’s skyline.

Toast the twilight

Sip cool cocktails in a fiery-red rail car or quaff a beer with the locals on the patio at Resto Gare , a lively bistro and bar set in a 100-year-old railway station. If late-night coffee and French pastries are what you crave, Le Garage Café is a favourite local haunt, with its cozy, brick-lined space, subdued lighting and windows open to the street.

Coffee

1 Le Garage Café , 166 Provencher Blvd.; 204-237-5964
2 Leo’s Gelato and Café , 130B Provencher Blvd.; 204-237-4174
3 Seine River Café , 390A Provencher Blvd.; 204-237-4864

Food

4 Promenade Bistro , 130C Provencher Blvd.; 204-233-7030
5 Step’N Out , 157 Provencher Blvd.; 204-956-7837; stepnout.ca
6 Resto Gare m, 630 Des Meurons St.; 204-237-7072
7 In Ferno’s Bistro , 312 Des Meurons St.; 204-262-7400; infernosbistro.com
8 Chez Sofie , 248 Ave. de la Cathedrale; 204-235-0353
9 Le Croissant , 276 Taché Ave.; 204-237-3536
10 Les Jasmins de la Tunisie , 131 Provencher Blvd.; 204-231-8308

Shopping

11 À La Page , 200 Provencher Blvd.; 204-233-7223
12 Bijou Treasures , 190 Provencher Blvd.; 204-233-9722; bijoutreasures.com
13 Wayne Arthur Gallery , 186 Provencher Blvd.; 204-477-5249; waynearthurgallery.com

Sightseeing

14 Maison des Artistes , 219 Provencher Blvd.; 204-237-0737
15 St. Boniface Museum , 494 Taché Ave.; 204-237-4500
16 St. Boniface Cathedral & Louis Riel’s Tombstone , 190 Ave. de la Cathedrale; 204-233-7304