Palm Springs : Features
How Palm Springs Got Its Groove Back
By Tom Gierasimczuk
Apr 1, 2008

 As the late-May afternoon sun finally contemplated its merciful descent after eight hours of 40-degree heat that baked the 60,000 people attending the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival in the Southern California desert town of Indio, near Palm Springs, the two sunburned buddies with goatees as thick and their Texas drawl were discussing walking away from what would soon be lauded as one of the most memorable live music moments of 2005. One was thirsty. The other had to pee.

Calgary sisters Tegan and Sara had just ripped through a chatty energetic 30-minute set and up next was a band called The Arcade Fire. The crowd of 500 or so—some wearing Canadian sports memorabilia in honour of the back-to-back Canuck acts—swelled to a couple of thousand by the time the Montréal band finished its sound check. The two dudes, deciding that people running from all corners of the Empire Polo Field towards the stage and towards them could only mean a band worth sticking around for, stayed.

By the time The Arcade Fire, who only weeks before had shared the stage with David Bowie and was on the playlist of any music geek worth her white sunglasses, launched into “Rebellion (Lies),” only the summits of the San Jacinto range poked up from the sea of people that stretched from the stage to the orange and indigo horizon.

The two friends, like many in the audience without a subscription to Billboard magazine, could only bounce with the crush of fans, minds blown by what they were seeing. One did manage to ask his friend in amazement: “My God, who are these guys?”

For Paul Tollett, president of Los Angeles-based Goldenvoice, one of the continent’s best-known concert promoters—thanks in large part to the massive success of eight Coachella festivals—“these guys” are the key to keeping his desert festival on its mythical mantel.

“These bands are the ones that you book in November; you’re taking a gamble that by April something is going to explode on them,” he says. “We’ve done well in the past with Gnarls Barkley and Amy Winehouse last year. We seem to pick up on a few that seem to really explode over the following year.”

For this year’s Coachella, running from April 25 – 27, Tollett recommends two English artists: chanteuse Kate Nash and Welsh soul singer Duffy, whose hit, “Mercy,” has been shaking the U.K. in recent months.

Tollett’s eclectic curation, along with an egalitarian aesthetic—where Paris Hilton and Jack Black stroll the same palm tree-fringed grounds as Midwestern high school students with only a return ticket to their name, and where the price of water has remained the same since the event launched in 1999—has firmly established Coachella as the must-see North American music festival.

Last year it sold out weeks in advance, largely because it grew to three days from two and served up not only modern music legends like Red Hot Chili Peppers, Björk, Ghostface Killah and Willie Nelson, but reunited favourites like Rage Against the Machine and Happy Mondays.

“I think that [Coachella] is a respectful way for a band to get back together, because they’re not just playing to the fans that they used to play to, but they’re playing for them and a whole new generation of people that have been dying to see them,” Tollett says of his festival’s knack for reunions. “I think it’s exciting when you’re a band that hasn’t played in a while and you come out and you’ve got a bunch of 18-year-olds who know every song. It’s gotta be fun.”

It must be: this year’s lineup includes The Breeders, Madness and Love and Rockets.Why the addition of the third day?

“The bread and butter of the festival are the up-and-coming bands and we’re at a time in music history when there is an in-credible number of small and up-and-coming bands. I’ve never seen anything like it,” Tollett says.

Despite (or more likely because of) his monumental work on Coachella, Goldenvoice launched Stagecoach last year at the same venue, a week after the big show. Billed as “California’s Country Music Festival,” last year’s two-day event drew a modest 55,000. This year’s installment is growing to three days (May 2 – 4) and The Eagles were recently announced as headliners. This in addition to The Judds’ first live show since 2000. The bill also boasts Tim McGraw, Big & Rich, Carrie Underwood, Rascal Flatts, Gretchen Wilson and George Jones, one of Tollett’s recommended artists not to miss. Dwight Yoakam, who is playing Coachella the previous weekend, is also on board.

“A lot of people in the community say they loved the Coachella festival, they just didn’t like the music,” says Tollett about inspiration for Stagecoach. “They loved country music. We didn’t really know anything about country music, so we researched it for three months. I listened to country for three months… watched DVDs and talked to friends and went to Nashville.”

Another tenant for the Empire Polo Club doesn’t hurt, either. Rumours abound that owner Alexander Haagen III has contemplated redeveloping the property that Tollett fell in love with 15 years ago. There are always big bucks to be made from putting up luxury hotels and housing in L.A.’s playground.

“When we did Pearl Jam at the Polo Field in 1993, we remembered how beautiful it was,” he says. “We wanted it to be somewhat far from Los Angeles to weed out the people who are just driving by for an hour or two. We wanted it to be a destination-type of event where you commit for a few days.”

Given Tollett’s gift of the concert lineup, it’s a commitment even the cagiest music fan will have no trouble making for years to come.

Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival

Friday, April 25 – Sunday, April 27

Empire Polo Grounds, Indio; $269 for a three-day pass; coachella.com

FRIDAY, APRIL 25

Jack Johnson, The Verve, The Raconteurs,

The Breeders, Fatboy Slim, Tegan and Sara, Madness, The Swell Season, The National, Slightly Stoopid, Múm, Sharon Jones & the Dap Kings, Stars, Battles, Aesop Rock, Midnight Juggernauts, Does it Offend You, Yeah?, Minus the Bear, Spank Rock, dan le sac Vs Scroobius Pip, Diplo, Adam Freeland, Santogold, Les Savy Fav, Jens Lekman, John Butler Trio, Vampire Weekend, Dan Deacon, Architecture in Helsinki, Sandra Collins, Busy P, Cut Copy, Black Lips, Datarock, Professor Murder, Reverend and the Makers, The Bees, Porter, Rogue Wave, Modeselektor, American Bang, Luckyiam

SATURDAY, APRIL 26

Portishead, Kraftwerk, Death Cab for Cutie, Cafe Tacvba, Sasha & John Digweed, Rilo Kiley, Dwight Yoakam, M.I.A., Hot Chip, Cold War Kids, Stephen Malkmus & the Jicks, DeVotchKa, Flogging Molly, Mark Ronson, Turbonegro, Scars on Broadway, Islands, Enter Shikari, Calvin Harris, Boys Noize, Junkie XL, Cinematic Orchestra, Jamie T, The Teenagers, VHS or Beta, The Annuals, Carbon/Silicon, Erol Alkan, Yo! Majesty, Little Brother, Bonde Do Role, St. Vincent, Akron/Family, MGMT, Institubes DJs (Surkin, Para One and Orgasmic), James Zabiela, SebastiAn, Kavinsky, Dredg, The Bird and the Bee, Grand Ole Party, New Young Pony Club, 120 Days, Yoav, Electric Touch, Uffie

SUNDAY, APRIL 27

Roger Waters, Love and Rockets,

My Morning Jacket, Spiritualized, Justice, Gogol Bordello, Chromeo, The Streets, Metric, Danny Tenaglia, Simian Mobile Disco, Booka Shade, Murs, Dimitri from Paris, Autolux, The Field, Linton Kwesi Johnson, The Cool Kids, Sons & Daughters, Sia, Holy F-ck, Black Kids, Black Mountain, Kid Sister w/A-Trak, Duffy, I'm from Barcelona, Manchester Orchestra, Deadmau5, The Horrors, Austin TV, Shout Out Louds, Plastiscines, Brett Dennen

Stagecoach Festival

Friday, May 2 – Sunday, May 4

Empire Polo Grounds, Indio; $249 for a three-day pass; stagecoachfestival.com

FRIDAY, MAY 2

The Eagles, John Fogerty, Trisha

Yearwood, Shelby Lynne, Glen Campbell and Family, Shooter Jennings, Rissi Palmer, Nitty Gritty Dirt Band, Chuck Wicks, Sons of the San Joaquin, Don Edwards

SATURDAY, MAY 3

Rascal Flatts, The Judds, Dierks Bentley, Taylor Swift, Earl Scruggs, Bucky Covington, Luke Bryan, Cross Canadian Ragweed, Crystal Shawanda, Jypsi, The Dan Tyminski Band, Riders in the Sky, Kentucky Headhunters, J.D. Crowe

SUNDAY, MAY 4

Tim McGraw, Carrie Underwood, Big & Rich, Gretchen Wilson, Dwight Yoakam, Trace Adkins, George Jones, Jack Ingram, Ralph Stanley and the Clinch Mountain Boys, Halfway to Hazard, Jerry Douglas, Ian Tyson, The Isaacs, Michael Martin Murphey, Wylie & the Wild West, Billy Joe Shaver, Waddie Mitchell, Carolina Chocolate Drops

The Desert’s New Shades

Hot bands and DJs are not the only things heating up Palm Springs this spring. The area’s hotel scene hasn’t been this booming since the ’40s. These six cool new properties have something for everyone—whether you’re there with your entourage or the kids

Colony Palms Hotel

572 N. Indian Canyon Dr.
800-557-2187
colonypalmshotel.com

Originally a Mob speakeasy, gambling joint and brothel that opened in 1935, the 56-room boutique hotel (including suites and 10 casitas) is a lot more welcoming than its history would suggest after a $16-million revamp by celeb designer Martyn Lawrence Bullard. Featuring Uzbekistani textiles, French tiles, vintage photos and other whimsical 1940’s-Hollywood touches, the Spanish colonial-inspired property boasts a spacious poolside courtyard, a spa, a Mediterranean-inspired restaurant and martini-dropping mountain views.

Hyatt Grand Champions

44600 Indian Wells Lane
760-341-1000
grandchampions.hyatt.com

The resort’s 45 opulent acres are sprinkled with lush gardens, ornate courtyards and fountains and an impressive art collection. The 30,000-sq.-ft. Agua Serena Spa and Salon is one of the largest spas in the area. New this year are 43 luxury villas with lagoon and mountain views, complete with private patios, outdoor stone Jacuzzis and butler service.

The Horizon Hotel

1050 E. Palm Canyon Dr.
800-377-7855
thehorizonhotel.com

This true mid-century modern gem reopened two years ago after an extensive restoration of the original architecture and addition of modern amenities. Originally built in 1952 by famed Southern California architect William F. Cody, the 22-room property boasts low-slung ceilings and the absence of any 90-degree angles, opting instead for surreal 102- and 78-degree angles. Along with spectacular views of the San Jacinto Mountains, the Horizon Hotel features chemical-free therapy pools, outdoor showers, a Jacuzzi spa and a poolside bar.

Homewood Suites by Hilton La Quinta
45200 Washington St.
760-391-4600
homewoodsuites.com

Opened in August 2007, the Homewood Suites in the city of La Quinta boasts 130 spacious suites ranging from studios to two-bedrooms. With a massive, resort-style pool and full kitchens in every suite, this family-friendly property is a good value and makes it easy to lie in the sun and not do much of anything.

Rancho Las Palmas

41000 Bob Hope Dr.
866-423-1195
rancholaspalmas.com

A healthy pursuit of fun drove the $35-million makeover at the new Rancho Las Palmas resort in Rancho Mirage. The result: Splashtopia, a two-acre water park with a lazy river, slides, pool and even a beach. Back on land, a central outdoor plaza is the heart of live entertainment and dining. Nearby is a 20,000-sq.-ft. spa and salon, golf course and tennis court and, for those craving more water, four pools. The environs are just as impressive: majestic Mount Jacinto is a short stroll away, and across the street is The River, a dynamic entertainment, dining and retail area.

The Holiday Inn Palm Springs City Center

1800 E. Palm Canyon Dr.
760-323-1711
holidayinn.com

Re-opened this past summer, this pet-friendly property is conveniently located 1.5 km from downtown Palm Springs. But this being Palm Springs, the $15-plus-million reno was overseen by Italian architect James Cioffi, designer of the city’s Hotel Zoso, opened several years ago to plenty of buzz. In keeping with the town’s leisure heritage, the property features a cabana bar and a pool facing the San Jacinto Mountains.