From Up! Magazine

Features
Red, White and Value
By Anthony Gismondi, David Lawrason and Steve Thurlow
Nov 1, 2007

wine-thumb.jpg
Great wine for under $25? Believe it,  people… and check out these 2007 International Value Wine Award  winners, hand-picked by the wine pros at Wine Access magazine



wine.jpg
Great wine for under $25? Believe it, people… and check out these 2007 International Value Wine Award  winners, hand-picked by the wine pros at Wine Access magazine.


The International Value Wine Awards is a Canadian-based competition run by up! sister publication Wine Access magazine. The judges—leading independent wine writers and critics, all—span the nation and include three of Quebec’s most respected French-speaking writers.

 

The following paragraphs list the top values on the planet—14 countries in all submitted almost 1,000 wines in 30 categories. The premise of the International Value Wine Awards is to find the best value wines in Canada that sell “somewhere” for less than $25—a threshold chosen due to the fact that, as far as we can ascertain, 97 per cent of all wines sold in Canada sell for less than $25.

 

Since prices range across the country, they’ll differ slightly from those posted here. We have i ncluded the lowest price we could find and rounded it up or down to give you a base price. It’s possible you will find it for a few pennies less, but be prepared to pay a dollar or two more, depending upon where you live.

 

We have also tried to taste the latest vintage, but only assessed what wineries entered. If the vintage is sold out or has disappeared from shelves, our advice is to try the next one; it is likely to be just as good, because quality at this level is not so much vintage-reliant as it is driven by a winery’s philosophy.

 

And be quick—wines we highly recommend tend to go up in price.

 

The following winners are just the highlights of the obsessively profound, 45-page analysis featured in the October/November issue of Wine Access. Go to wineaccess.ca for much more value wine winners, awards info and to buy the issue.


Best Cabernet Sauvignon

 

89 Points

Santa Julia 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva

Maipu, Mendoza, Argentina      

BC $14, ON $14, QC $15

 

We are used to Santa Julia delivering value, so it’s no surprise its Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva jumped to the top of this category. It’s 100-per cent cabernet sauvignon from the Maipu region of Mendoza that is hand-picked and aged in French oak for eight months. You will love its soft, ripe, fruit flavours of plums and black cherries, spiked with savoury tobacco and black pepper. — AG


Best Merlot


89 Points

C J Pask 2005 Gimblett Road Merlot

Hawkes Bay , New Zealand

ON $15

 
C J Pask is one of the top producers of reds from the Gimblett Gravels zone in Hawkes Bay, New Zealand’s warmest viticultural region. A beautiful nose of cherry and ripe currant fruit with spice, dark chocolate and earthy notes leads to a balanced palate with ample fruit and fresh acid to keep it lively and driven to the finish. Tannins are mature and firm. Very good to excellent length. Best 2007 to 2012. — ST


Best Pinot Noir


88 Points

Spy Valley 2005 Pinot Noir

Marlborough, New Zealand            

$25 (suggested winery price)


Marlborough is proving to be a great source for inexpensive, fine pinot, as in this example from Spy Valley, so named because of the American satellite communications listening base just down the road. The fruit is youthful on the nose and palate with cherry and ripe plum, ably supported by a touch of oak and some fine elegant tannins, giving good grip. Good varietal character at this price. — ST


Best Shiraz/Syrah


92 Points

Nugan Estate 2005 McLaren Parish Shiraz

McLaren Vale , South Australia  

AB $24


The 2004 vintage won the same category at the 2006 IVWA, showing that the Nugan wines, though new to Canada, offer consistently great value. The aromas of this shiraz soar right out of the glass with integrated black cherry, menthol, leather, tar and vanilla notes. Very dense on the palate, yet super-smooth and glistening with glycerines. Excellent length. Best 2007 to 2018, maybe longer. — ST

 

Best Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz blends


88 Points

Promised Land 2005 Shiraz Cabernet

South Australia
ON $16


The 2004 vintage won this category at the 2006 IVWA and this is a very similar wine, with its fragrant, shiraz-dominated nose of cherry and blackberry fruit with a hint of spice. Medium-bodied and delightfully smooth, with great integration and a peppery finish. Best 2007 to 2012. — ST

 

Best Other Red Blend, Cabernet Sauvignon-based Bordeaux Style


90 Points

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2005 Proprietors’ Reserve Meritage Red

Okanagan ValleyBritish Columbia, Canada          

ON $25    

   

As it’s been for some years, the open JT nose of cloves, black cherry jam and vanilla entice. On the palate, a soft, round entry precedes a rich, smoky, coffee mocha, savoury, black olive flavour. It’s a blend that does well most years in the south Okanagan.   AG

 

Best Other Red Blend, Non-traditional Red Blends


89 Points

Trivento 2005 Cabernet/Malbec Reserve

Mendoza , Argentina         

BC $13, MB $12, ON $13, NF $14


The judges applauded this red that delivers, from its white pepper nose to its blackberry jam and meaty aromas. On the palate, the entry is fat with savoury, coffee, black cherry jam flavours, flecked with licorice. Incredible flavour intensity for the price. A super barbecue red. — AG

 

89 Points

Waterbrook 2005 Melange

Walla Walla Valley, Columbia Valley , Washington United States          

$15 (suggested winery price)


I would say that a blend of sauvignon (33 per cent), sangiovese (26 per cent) and merlot (25 per cent), plus some syrah and cabernet franc, qualifies as a melange,
and that’s what you get in the mouth from this smooth, round-textured red that sports a savoury, tobacco, ripe blackberry fruit flavour, with a dash of Starbucks mocha and spice. Well done. — AG

 

Best Carmenère


87 Points

Ventisquero Yali 2006 Carmenère Reserve

Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Curicó, Chile

$13 (suggested winery price)


The trademark eucalyptus and licorice nose is hard to miss and, as usual, it challenged our judges to find the best expression. Ventisquero is relatively new to Canada, but its soft, fragrant black fruit with licorice and mint underpinnings were enough to sway the judges. — AG

 

Best Malbec


91 Points

Kaiken 2005 Malbec

Mendoza, Argentina    

AB $18, ON $19


Round after round, the Kaiken wowed the judges. It would appear Aurelio Montes has put the magic back into malbec, but he had to go to Argentina to do it, hence “Kaiken,” named after the wild goose that flies back and forth over the Andes between Chile and Argentina. Rich, savoury, soft flavours streaked with licorice, pepper, black cherry jam, coffee and cardamom. — AG

 

Best Sangiovese


88 Points

Antinori 2004 Peppoli Chianti Classico

Tuscany , Italy        

AB $20, MB $25, ON $20, NF $25, PEI $23


Antinori grabbed the sangiovese prize with his elegantly styled Chianti Classico. Peppoli blends 90 per cent sangiovese with 10 per cent merlot and syrah. The wine
is always elegant, but as Europe warms up, there are riper black fruit flavours and more warmth on the palate. Drink all fall and winter with hearty foods. Bravo.  AG

 

Best Tempranillo


90 Points

Torres 2004 Celeste

Ribera del Duero, Castilla-Leon , Spain          

BC $25, ON $15


One hundred per cent tempranillo, matured in French and American oak, this is a rich wine with ripe, dense fruit, held in a beautifully smooth palate, with big tannins showing up on the finish. The nose shows prune and cassis fruit with earthy tones, mid- to full-bodied; it will benefit from a few years in the cellar. Excellent length. Best 2009 to 2012. — ST

 

Best Zinfandel


89 Points

Clos du Bois 2005 Zinfandel

North Coast, California , United States

MB $22, QC $23, NF $24


The 2003 vintage was “Best USA Red” and “Best Zin” at the 2006 IVWA, showing the consistency of this wine. Beautiful, rich, round nose of ripe fruit, nicely blended with French oak spice and some leather and mocha notes. Full-bodied yet supple, with a big finish. — ST

 

Best Other Red Varietal


89 Points

Nugan Estate 2005 Manuka Grove Durif

Riverina , New South Wales, Australia

AB $25


A lot of complexity for a wine at this price, with a nose of cassis, bramble, cedar with tar and earth components. Well-balanced and super-smooth, with excellent length. Impressive, to say the least.  ST

 

Best Rosé


88 Points

Angove’s 2007 Nine Vines Rosé

South Australia       

$15 (suggested winery price)


This fun, lively, spicy grenache/syrah blend is packed with bright earthy, mineral,
red fruit aromas. Hints of melon, citrus and earthy cherry, berry flavours fill out the mid-palate and finish. Big enough for food, but light and fresh enough to sip solo on the patio.   AG

 

Best Oaked Chardonnay


92 Points

Cathedral Cellar 2005 Chardonnay

Paarl, Coastal Region, South Africa     

ON $15, MB $15, NS $12


This wine and winemaker, Tania Joubert, have been winning accolades all over the world with this rich, ripe, lively chardonnay with beautiful racy acidity and great depth considering the price. Expect aromas of ripe apple, lemon and tropical fruit with mineral freshness. Rich and creamy, with the fruit well-balanced by lemony acidity. Excellent length. — ST

 

Best Un-oaked Chardonnay


87 Points

Gravitas 2006 Chardonnay

Wairau Valley, Marlborough , New Zealand        

ON $24


Gravitas is one of New Zealand’s hot new wineries that is new to Canada. This is a fresh, clean style of chard with a lemon citrus apple nose and clean, refreshing palate. Well-extracted with mineral layers to the fruity palate. Good balance and length. — ST

 

Best Aromatic Whites—Varietals and Blends


89 Points

Wild Goose 2006 Gewürztraminer

Okanagan Falls, Okanagan ValleyBritish Columbia, Canada          

BC $19


Always crisp and elegant, the Goose Gewürztraminer specializes in floral, spicy, litchi, rose petal aromas and ginger, oily, peachy, mineral flavours with flecks of sausage meat. Impressive styling for the price.   AG

 

Best White Blends


88 Points

St Hallett 2006 Poacher’s Blend

Barossa Valley, South Australia      

BC $13, AB $14, MB $12, QC $15


Sourced from mostly Barossa and Eden Valley fruit, the ’06 Poacher’s is a delightful mix of floral, mineral and grapefruit aromas. The palate is fresh, round and zesty with more grapefruit, honey, mineral, butter flavours with a rind-y, slightly sour finish. Should be a hit most nights when you are looking for an easy-sipping white wine. — AG

 

Best Pinot Gris/ Pinot Grigio


88 Points

Loredona 2006 Pinot Grigio

Monterey County, Central Coast, California, United States   

$17 (suggested winery price)


Loredona turned out to be a pleasant surprise in what was a tough group of competitors. Its cool Monterey origins have spawned a delicious mix of bright tropical aromas and flavours, with a touch of residual sugar, that all come off Block 65—the oldest pinot gris grapes at the impressive San Bernabe vineyard. — AG


Best Sauvignon Blanc


88 Points

Mount Riley 2006 Sauvignon Blanc

Marlborough, New Zealand         

BC $20, AB $22, MB $20, ON $19


Judged just a nose ahead of the rest of the field of fine sauvignons, this displays ripe passion fruit and gooseberry, with juicy lemony acidity refreshing the palate. Elegant and quite rich, but still fresh, crisp and lively right through to the finish.   ST

 

Best Riesling


89 Points

St. Urbans-Hof Ockfener Bockstein 2006 Riesling Spätlese

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany     

AB $18, QC $15, ON $21


Quintessential Mosel with its delicate, juicy red apple fruits streaked with gooseberry, slate and citrus. There is always plenty of mineral and lemon in this wine, which I’m sure is what attracts all the attention from the judges. Delicious.   AG

 

Best Sparkling


88 Points

Wyndham Estate N/V Bin 222 Sparkling Chardonnay

South Eastern Australia   

BC $15, MB $14, ON $12,  QC $14, NS $14, NF $13


In 2005, it was Germany that ruled this category. This year, it’s Australia that grabbed the fizz crown. Under $25 can be a challenge for bubble producers, but Wyndham gets it right with this toasty aromatic sparkler packed with plenty of cool fruit from Southern Victoria and Padthaway. The palate is crisp and tart with a slightly nutty underside. Well done.   AG



TOP 25 KILLER VALUES


W e left no stone unturned to come up with our absolute list of killer values. The final compilation reflects a number of mathematical applications that took into account the score and price of the wine as it relates to all wine scores and prices in the entire competition. Enough said: this is the list everyone is looking for.   AG


1. Cathedral Cellar 2005 Chardonnay

Paarl Coastal Region, South Africa

92 Points

$15

 

2. Farnese 2006 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

Abruzzo, Italy    

88 Points

$7


3. Castillo de Almansa 2003 Reserva

Almansa  Castilla- La Mancha, Spain

89 Points

$11


4. Pascual Toso 2005 Malbec

Maipu, Mendoza, Argentina

89 Points

$13


5. Charamba 2004 Tinto

Douro Valley, Portugal        

87 Points      

$9


6. Trivento 2005 Cabernet/Malbec Reserve

Mendoza, Argentina

89 Points

$12


7. Goundrey 2003 Offspring Shiraz

Western Australia         

89 Points     

$13


8. Penascal 2004 Tempranillo

Castilla-La Mancha, Spain       

88 Points